Well-Being
Elderly Rabbits
By Chandra Moira Beal
With an average life span of ten years, many rabbits live healthily and happily well into their teens. Still, adopting or living with an elderly rabbit has its own set of rewards and challenges.
Senior rabbits move about a little slower, but they are still willing and able to learn new routines. Litterbox habits are still present, but some older rabbits have trouble getting into the box (cutting down the side is suggested). They sleep a lot more but wake up plenty eager for their treats. New concerns, such as shifting dietary needs, incontinence, immobility, and the possible loss of a rabbit's longtime mate can all come into play.
Diet
There are many types of "senior" dog and cat food on the market these days. Until recently, it was difficult to find any kind of quality feed specifically designed for the needs of long living, non-breeding house rabbits, let alone senior rabbits. As more and more people bring rabbits into their homes, and as they live longer, perhaps pellet manufacturers will begin to develop special feeds for older rabbits. In the meantime, there are two things you should consider in your older rabbit's diet: calories and calcium.
It is important to watch your rabbit's calorie intake and try to prevent obesity, no matter what their age. Get to know your rabbit's food pellets by reading the label. To find out the caloric content, contact the manufacturer and ask how many calories their pellets contain per pound. Then weigh your pellets to find out how many cups there are in one pound of that brand. Next, divide the number of cups by the calories to give you the number of calories per cup. Finally, divide your rabbit's daily energy needs by the calories to know how much pellet to feed. The House Rabbit Handbook (www.rabbit.org) has an excellent chapter on diets with tables of calories and foods, and instructions on how to find your rabbit's energy requirements.
Pellets should contain no more than 0.6% calcium. Many popular feeds contain more than 0.6%, so to reduce calcium intake you must reduce the amount of pellets fed or make them a smaller portion of the diet. An excellent pellet for rabbits of all ages is Bunny Basics/T made by Oxbow Hay (www.oxbowhay.com). BB/T is timothy-based rather than alfalfa-based, so it naturally contains fewer calories and less calcium.
Older rabbits generally need fewer pellets and more hay and vegetables. However frail, older rabbits may need unrestricted pellets to keep weight up. Alfalfa can be given to underweight rabbits, only if calcium levels are normal. Annual blood workups are highly recommended for geriatric rabbits.
Losing a Companion
Bunnies are social creatures that often bond with other rabbits for life. When one bunny dies, the surviving rabbit may become depressed and sick. Many rabbits lose weight and are no longer interested in treats or toys. Often the best solution is to bring another senior bunny home. A baby bunny would be a poor choice as they have their own set of needs and cannot provide the mellow companionship that an older rabbit can. The newly bonded pair may not behave exactly the same as the original pair, but they can be good friends to each other in their twilight years.
Immobility and Litterboxes
Geriatric bunnies frequently have aches and pains that make it difficult to use a litterbox. With a few minor adjustments, you can help make life easier for the both of you.
If the litterbox is too high to scale, replace it with a large hay tub with a cutaway door that has a one-inch threshold. This allows a stiff-jointed elderly rabbit to access the inside. Impaired bunnies cannot always maneuver a turn-around inside a small box.
Even a one-inch threshold is too high for some rabbits. In these cases, a flat area is needed that has no barriers to cross, that can be urinated on, that absorbs moisture, and that won't scatter. And you need protection for your floor. This is all accomplished with a washable/disposable rug on top of newspapers on top of a tray.
Use a large piece of synthetic fleece as the top layer. Synthetic fleece provides cushioning for bunnies whose bodies keep contact with the surface. Another option is to use disposable sea-grass mats. These are fairly inexpensive and can be found in import stores. They are sold as flooring and can be cut to fit your needs.
The middle layer can be made up of newspapers, magazines, junk mail, paper towels, and pages from old phone directories.
Finally, use oil-drip pans with smooth rounded edges (no sharp, potentially dangerous corners) for the bottom layer. These are available in auto supply and hardware stores everywhere and come in a variety of sizes.
The rug on top allows moisture to drain through, the absorbent middle layer soaks up moisture, and the waterproof layer on the bottom prevents moisture from reaching your floor or furnishings. Life is easier for you and your elder bun.
These are but a few of the common concerns that arise with older rabbits. Medical conditions may appear more frequently, just as in humans. Plan ahead for the life of your rabbit. Feed them for longevity, set aside money for medical expenses, and adjust your environment to meet their changing needs. You will be rewarded ten-fold!
© Copyright by Chandra Moira Beal. All rights reserved.
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